Tips for Finishing Shutterstile Shutters

Western Red Cedar

Unfinished Cedar. Western Red Cedar is naturally decay resistant. Left unfinished, it will weather to a soft gray. However, weathering takes it's toll on longevity. Changes in humidity will cause the unfinished wood to expand and contract. In time, this may cause the wood to crack or warp and the surface to become soft and rough. So we strongly recommend that you apply a finish to your shutters that completely seals the wood from humidity as soon as possible.

Latex Paints. The natural color of cedar is highly variable, ranging from nearly white to dark brown. The darker colors are due to high concentrations of tannins in the wood. Unfortunately, tannins can bleed through latex paints if the wood isn't primed before painting with a stain-blocking primer. In addition, latex paints can take months to dry fully. Anyone who has painted a window with latex paint probably knows that this can cause the window to stick. The same thing can happen with the panels in your shutters.

If you decide to use a latex paint, there are several things you can do to improve performance. First, wipe down the shutters with rubbing alcohol before finishing to remove any tannins that might be on the surface. Second, apply a quality primer/sealer that is rated for exterior use and compatible with the paint you are planning to use. Third, select a latex paint that claims to have good blocking resistance (blocking is the technical term for the tendancy of latex paint to stick). Fourth, once the paint has dried enough to handle, application of talcum powder, wax, or soap may temporarily relieve blocking. Finally, if you do use a latex paint and later find it difficult to remove a panel, it's usually possible to break the seal by inserting a stiff putty knife under the panel and gently lifting up (figure 1).

Acrylic Paints. The best way to avoid the problems associated with latex paints is to use an acrylic paint instead (not acrylic latex, just acrylic). Acrylic paints won't stick or yellow and, in our experience, are more resistant to bleed through from the tannins [it's still a good idea to wipe down the shutters with rubbing alcohol to remove any tannins that might be on the surface before finishing.

We use General Finishes acrylic milk paints. General Finishes can color match most popular paint brands. These water-based paints dry to a matt finish, but can be brought to a semi-gloss with General Finishes' acrylic top coat. And no separate primer or sealer is required. Just apply additional coats until you achieve an even top coat.

Stains. [Please let us know when you place your order if you intend to stain your cedar shutters.] The good news is that cedar accepts stain well and staining is a very attractive option. However, before you make the decision to stain, you should be aware that exterior stains do not perform as well as paints. Don't be fooled by manufacturers' claims. The best you can hope for is a three to five years before it will be necessary to refinish, or at least replenish a stained finish.

A polyurethane top coat will extend the life of most stains and slow down fading from UV light. Unfortunately, most exterior stains contain a wax or other water repellant that is incompatible with polyurethane. In addition, it may be necessary to strip the polyurethane top coat in order to reapply the stain. We have been experimenting extensively with stains, but have yet to find the perfect one. We'll keep you posted of our progress.

One promising alternative to staining is an exterior grade tung oil. Tung oil requires periodic repeat applications, but there is no need to strip the old finish to achieve a consistent look. We've heard good things about exterior tung oil, but we don't use it in-house because we only use water-based products.

No Sanding Needed. We sand all of our cedar shutters before they are shipped. So they should be ready for paint when you receive them. If you feel you need to sand, a light touchup with a 220 or finer grit paper should be sufficient.

Repairing Minor Damage. Despite its resistance to decay, cedar is a soft wood. Should you accidentally scratch one of your shutters, a light sanding will probably repair the damage. Most dents, can be removed by lightly wetting the damaged area, covering it with a piece of cloth, and passing a hot iron over it [note: this only works with unfinished wood]. For more severe damage, use an exterior grade wood filler and follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Don't forget to install the rubber bumpers. If your shutters arrived unfinished, you should have received two small rubber bumpers for each panel. These center the panels vertically in the opening. Apply a small amount of caulk to one side of each bumper and glue the bumpers to the bottom sill of the panel opening, back against the rabbet, about one third of the width of the opening from each side (figure 2). Press down firmly so the bumpers are seated tight against the sill. Allow the caulk to set before installing the panels.

Koma PVC

Unfinished Koma Board. Koma PVC is designed for exterior use. It contains UV inhibitors and may, therefore, be left unfinished for decades of maintenance-free service.

Latex Paints. Latex paint adheres to Koma PVC even better than wood. Most paint failures on wood surfaces are due to moisture penetrating the pores and lifting the paint from behind. Because Koma PVC is not porous, this isn't a problem. Consequently, you can expect many years of service from latex paint on PVC before it becomes necessary to repaint. However, latex paints can take months to dry fully. Anyone who has painted a window with latex paint probably knows that this can cause the window to stick. The same thing can happen with the panels in your shutters.

PVC performs best with lighter colored paints. Shutters made of KOMA PVC which are painted dark colors (less than 65 LRV light reflective value) and placed in areas of direct sunlight may experience some warping. Care should be taken to mount the shutters properly and keep them out of the sun when hanging them. When allowed to cool on a flat surface, the warp should disappear.

If you decide to use a latex paint, there are several things you can do to improve performance. First, select a latex paint that claims to have good blocking resistance (blocking is the technical term for the tendancy of latext paint to stick). Second, if your shutters will be exposed to direct sunlight, select a light colored paint with a LRV of 65 or higher, or use a good quality heat reflective paint such as Sherwin-Williams Vinyl Safe^TM [if you plan to use a dark color, let us know — we can reinforce the shutters to minimize warpage]. Third, once the paint has dried enough to handle, application of talcum powder, wax, or soap may temporarily relieve blocking. Finally, if you do use a latex paint and later find it difficult to remove a panel, it's usually possible to break the seal by inserting a stiff putty knife under the panel and gently lifting up (figure 1).

Acrylic Paints. The best way to avoid the blocking problems associated with latex paints is to use an acrylic paint instead (not acrylic latex, just acrylic). Acrylic paints won't stick or yellow. [However, it's still safest to choose lighter colors to avoid warpage if your shutters will be exposed to direct sunlight — or let us know if you plan to use a darker color and we'll reinforce the shutter to minimize warpage.]

We use General Finishes acrylic milk paints (http://www.generalfinishes.com). General Finishes can color match most popular paint brands. These water-based paints dry to a matt finish, but can be brought to a semi-gloss with General Finishes' acrylic top coat.

No Sanding Needed. Koma PVC is available in either a smooth finish or a very realistic simulated wood grain. In either case, it is not necessary to prime the surface before painting. Just wipe it down with a little rubbing alcohol to remove any dirt or dust from the surface and you're ready to paint. If you prefer, you can sand the edges or correct any minor surface imperfections with 220 grit sandpaper.

Repairing Minor Damage. If you plan to paint your Koma PVC shutters, you can repair any chips, dents, or scratches with an exterior spackle or paintable caulk.

Don't forget to install the rubber bumpers. If your shutters arrived unfinished, you should have received two small rubber bumpers for each panel. These center the panels vertically in the opening. Apply a small amount of caulk to one side of each bumper and glue the bumpers to the bottom sill of the panel opening, back against the rabbet, about one third of the width of the opening from each side (figure 2). Press down firmly so the bumpers are seated tight against the sill. Allow the caulk to set before installing the panels.