Wood Frame Wall Shutter Mounting Instructions

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Shutter Mounting Instructions
for Wood Frame Walls

Don't be fooled by the length of these instructions. We've tried to cover every contingency. Once you've installed the first shutter, it only takes about 15 minutes to install each additional pair. PLEASE READ ALL OF THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE BEGINNING.

Tools Needed: power screwdriver w/ phillips bit and drill bits, hand screwdriver w/ phillips bit, tape measure, level, pencil or felt tip marker, square (optional, but helpful).

Materials Needed: Shutterstile shutters, Shutterstile Z-bar mounting bracket kits, screws (at least 8, 3-inch screws for each pair of shutters — stainless steel or coated for exterior use), washers (at least 24 for each pair of shutters — stainless steel, sized to fit the screws), caulk, blue painter's tape (optional, but helpful).

figure 1: wall studs around windows

For wood frame structures, it is important to screw the mounting bracket directly into at least one, and preferably two studs. In traditional construction, you will typically find a double stud (three inches total width) on either side of the window, approximately one inch from the inside of the window frame (figure 1). However, this distance may be greater in older homes with windows that operate with the assistance of a sash weight hanging from a rope inside a wall cavity on either side of the window frame.

You will also typically find a single stud no more than 16 inches on center from these double studs. The best way to determine the locations of these studs is by checking on the inside wall using a stud finder, measuring the distance from the inside of the window, and transferring this measurement to the outside wall (figure 2).

figure 2: use a stud finder

In cases where the distance between studs is greater than the width of a shutter, it may be necessary to attach one screw to a stud and a second screw directly to the exterior sheathing. The exterior sheathing (the material onto which the siding is attached) is typically plywood or wood planks. However, some modern home builders have substituted a foam board sheathing. Unfortunately, foam board has no capacity for holding fasteners. If you determine that your sheathing is foam board, and the distance between the studs is greater than the width of a shutter on either side of any window, you will have to select a more traditional hinge type mounting system (see mounting instructions for Traditional Shutter Brackets). If you don't know what type of sheathing you have, try looking inside the attic (figure 3). If in doubt, give us a call and we'll try to help you figure it out.

figure 3: sheathing may be visible in the attic

The mounting system consists of two identical interlocking brackets (figure 4). The upper bracket is mounted to the shutter near the top of the upper panel opening with the drilled edge facing up (figure 5) [Note: it's important to leave a gap between the top of the bracket and the top frame rail for access]. The lower bracket mounts to the wall.

figure 4: Z-bar mounting brackets

Before attaching the upper bracket to the shutter, position the lower bracket into the upper bracket and measure the position of the lower bracket from the top of the shutter (figure 6). Transfer this measurement to the wall to check the approximate location of the holes on the wall. [Alternatively, with a little effort, you can hold the two brackets together against the back of the shutter and place the entire shutter against the wall to verify the bracket position.]

figure 5: leave a gap above top bracket

If you have siding, it is usually best to adjust the position of the brackets so that the holes in the lower bracket fall just below a siding panel (figure 7). If it is necessary to move the bracket to line up with a siding panel, always move it lower [to maintain the gap between the top of the bracket and the top frame rail]. As each application is different, you will have to use your best judgement to select the location that will provide the strongest connection and avoid damage to your siding.

figure 6: measure position of bracket from top of shutter

Once you are satisfied with the position of the lower bracket, it's time to mount the upper bracket to the shutter. Align the bracket as above and ensure that it is square to, and centered on the frame, either by using a square against the frame stile or by measuring down an equal distance from the top of each stile (figures 8 and 9). Mark the position of the outermost holes with a pencil: one hole in each stile. Remove the bracket and predrill each of the holes with a 1/8 inch drill bit, taking care to avoid drilling completely through the shutter. [Hint: wrap blue painters tape around the shank of the drill bit, 3/4 inch from the tip, to serve as a stop guide (figure 10)].

Attach the bracket to the shutter using the stainless steel screws provided. Hand tighten only to avoid splitting the wood or stripping the screw hole.

figure 7: mount bracket in recess

Now insert the lower bracket into the notch in the upper bracket and hold the shutter in place against the wall using the lower bracket as a handle (figure 11). Have a friend check that the shutter is plumb (using a level - figure 12) and properly aligned with the window opening (see the Design Tips section for more information on placement options). Once you are sure that the shutter is in the proper position, have your friend draw a line on the wall along the bottom of the lower bracket using a pencil or felt tip marker.

figure 8: align with a square

Remove the shutter from the wall. Identify the location of wall studs as described above and check to see if the holes in the lower bracket line up with the studs. If not, drill additional holes in the lower bracket as needed. Insert at least three washers between the lower bracket and the wall to prevent the buildup of water and debris behind the shutter and to compensate for the thickness of the siding. [Note: additional washers may be required behind one or more of the screws to keep the shutter parallel to the wall or to clear window trim.] Now attach the lower bracket to the wall by inserting a suitable fastener through one of the holes. [Hint: we recommend 3-inch long stainless steel or coated screws for longevity.] It's always safest to predrill for these screws, although this may not be necessary if you've chosen self-tapping screws. Add a dab of caulk to each screw to prevent water infiltration.

figure 9: or measure both ends from the top

With the help of your friend, you can now hold the shutter in place to double check that it is plumb and properly aligned, then mark for, and install the second set of washers and fastener. You may install additional fasteners into the wall if you feel it is necessary.

figure 10: make a depth gauge to drill holes

With the shutter hanging in place, it's time to measure for the bottom bracket. All of the weight of the shutter will be supported by the top bracket. The bottom bracket is intended solely to keep the bottom of the shutter in position against the wall.

figure 11: hold in position by the brackets

Find a suitable location on the wall for the lower bottom bracket, about the same distance from the bottom of the shutter as the top bracket is from the top of the shutter (i.e., about 4 inches). With the help of a friend and a level, install the lower bracket to the wall as above. Before final tightening, verify that the two wall brackets are parallel by measuring the distance between them at each end.

figure 12: check for plumb

Subtract 1/8 inch from this measurement and transfer the new measurement to the back of the shutter, measuring down from the top bracket the same distance to determine the position of the upper bottom bracket. [Note: the 1/8 inch difference creates a small gap between the upper and lower bottom brackets that allows the shutter to expand in response to changes in temperature and humidity without lifting off of the top bracket.] Mount the bracket to the shutter as before.

[Hint: for Koma® PVC shutters that are more than 40 inches high, we recommend repeating the above steps to install a third set of brackets in the approximate center of the shutter. These center brackets should also be mounted such that the upper bracket is 1/8 inch higher.]

figure 13: wrap cable tie around brackets

At this point, you could simply hang your shutter from the brackets and move on to the next shutter. However, for additional protection against high winds and passersby who might covet your shutters, we've come up with a simple security device. To secure your shutters, simply feed the provided cable tie behind the lower bracket and over the top of the upper bracket (figure 13). Alternatively, if there are unused holes in the two brackets that align with one another, you can run the tie through the holes (figure 14). While slightly more difficult to accomplish, this approach also provides additional protection against side-to-side movement. Pull the tie snug, but not too tight.

figure 14: or run cable tie through holes

Finally, install the panels in your shutters following these instructions.