Masonry Wall Shutter Mounting Instructions

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Shutter Mounting Instructions
for Masonry Walls

Don't be fooled by the length of these instructions. We've tried to cover every contingency. Once you've installed the first shutter, it only takes about 15 minutes to install each additional pair. PLEASE READ ALL OF THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE BEGINNING.

Tools Needed: power screwdriver w/ phillips bit and drill bits, hand screwdriver w/ phillips bit, Tapcon® drill bit, tape measure, level, pencil or felt tip marker, square (optional, but helpful), hammer drill (optional, but very helpful).

Materials Needed: Shutterstile shutters, Shutterstile Z-bar mounting bracket kits, Tapcon® fasteners (at least 8 for each pair of shutters — from your local hardware store), washers (at least 24 for each pair of shutters — stainless steel, sized to fit Tapcons®), caulk, blue painter's tape (optional, but helpful).

For most masonry walls, the bracket can be attached directly to the wall using Tapcon® fasteners or equivalent. These fasteners are available at most hardware and home improvement stores.

figure 1: Z-bar mounting brackets

The mounting system consists of two identical interlocking brackets (figure 1). The upper bracket is mounted to the shutter near the top of the upper panel opening with the drilled edge facing up [Note: it's important to leave a gap between the top of the bracket and the top frame rail for access (figure 2)]. The lower bracket mounts to the wall.

figure 2: leave a gap above top bracket

Before attaching the upper bracket to the shutter, position the lower bracket into the upper bracket and measure the position of the lower bracket from the top of the shutter (figure 3). Transfer this measurement to the wall to check the approximate location of the holes on the wall. [Alternatively, with a little effort, you can hold the two brackets together against the back of the shutter and place the entire shutter against the wall to verify the bracket position.]

If the holes come closer than 1/2 inch to a horizontal mortar joint, it will be necessary to attach the bracket lower on the shutter to avoid screwing into the mortar joint. [Note: only two of the holes are needed for mounting. If one or more of the holes come closer than 1/2 inch to a vertical, try to use different holes — but avoid using two adjacent holes for maximum strenth. If you can't use at least two of the existing holes, you can drill additional mounting holes in the bracket to avoid screwing into the mortar joint.]

figure 3: measure position of bracket from top of shutter

Once you are sure that the holes in the lower bracket do not line up with a mortar joint, it's time to mount the upper bracket to the shutter. Align the bracket as above and ensure that it is square to, and centered on the frame, either by using a square against the frame stile or by measuring down and equal distance from the top of each stile (figures 4 and 5). Mark the position of the outermost holes with a pencil: one hole in each stile. If it is necessary to move the bracket to avoid a mortar joint, always move it lower on the frame [to maintain the gap between the top of the bracket and the top frame rail]. Once you have marked the location of the holes, remove the bracket and predrill each of the holes with a 1/8 inch drill bit, taking care to avoid drilling completely through the shutter. [Hint: wrap blue painters tape around the shank of the drill bit, 3/4 inch from the tip, to serve as a stop guide (figure 6)].

figure 4: align with a square

Attach the bracket to the shutter using the stainless steel screws provided. Hand tighten only to avoid splitting the wood or stripping the screw hole.

Now insert the lower bracket into the notch in the upper bracket and hold the shutter in place against the wall using the lower bracket as a handle (figure 7). Have a friend check that the shutter is plumb (using a level - figure 8) and properly aligned with the window opening (see the Design Tips section for more information on placement options). Once you are sure that the shutter is in the proper position, have your friend trace at least one screw hole location on the wall using a pencil or felt tip marker.

figure 5: or measure both ends from the top

Remove the shutter and drill into the wall at the position you marked for the screw hole using a drill bit that matches the size of your Tapcon® fasteners (these bits are available wherever you purchased the Tapcon fasteners). [Hint: It's a lot easier to drill holes in masonry with a hammer drill. If you don't already have one, you can probably find an inexpensive off-brand for less than $30 at your local discount store. A hammer drill will drill as many as ten holes in the time it takes you to drill one hole with a conventional drill. And the bits last much longer too.]

figure 6: make a depth gauge to drill holes

Add a dab of caulk around the hole to prevent water infiltration. Insert at least three appropriate size washers between the lower bracket and the wall to prevent the buildup of water and debris behind the shutter. Then screw a Tapcon® fastener into the hole, taking care not to over tighten and strip the threads.

Place the shutter back against the wall. With the help of your friend, double check that the shutter is plumb and properly aligned, then mark and drill for a second Tapcon® fastener. Install the washers and fastener as above. You may install additional fasteners into the wall if you feel it is necessary either because one of the fasteners stripped during installation or you just want some additional insurance.

figure 7: hold in position by the brackets

With the shutter hanging in place, it's time to measure for the bottom bracket. All of the weight of the shutter will be supported by the top bracket. The bottom bracket is intended solely to keep the bottom of the shutter in position against the wall.

Find a suitable location on the wall for the lower bottom bracket, about the same distance from the bottom of the shutter as the top bracket is from the top of the shutter (i.e., about 4 inches). With the help of a friend and a level, install the lower bracket to the wall using the Tapcon® fasteners and washers as above. Before final tightening, verify that the two wall brackets are parallel by measuring the distance between them at each end.

Subtract 1/8 inch from this measurement and transfer the new measurement to the back of the shutter, measuring down from the top bracket the same distance to determine the position of the upper bottom bracket. [Note: the 1/8 inch difference creates a small gap between the upper and lower bottom brackets that allows the shutter to expand in response to changes in temperature and humidity without lifting off of the top bracket.] Mount the bracket to the shutter as before.

figure 8: check for plumb

[Hint: for Koma® PVC shutters that are more than 40 inches high, we recommend repeating the above steps to install a third set of brackets in the approximate center of the shutter. These center brackets should also be mounted such that the upper bracket is 1/8 inch higher.]

figure 9: wrap cable tie around brackets

At this point, you could simply hang your shutter from the brackets and move on to the next shutter. However, for additional protection against high winds and passersby who might covet your shutters, we've come up with a simple security device. To secure your shutters, simply feed the provided cable tie behind the lower bracket and over the top of the upper bracket (figure 9). Alternatively, if there are unused holes in the two brackets that align with one another, you can run the tie through the holes (figure 10). While slightly more difficult to accomplish, this approach also provides additional protection against side-to-side movement. Pull the tie snug, but not too tight.

figure 10: or run cable tie through holes

Finally, install the panels in your shutters following these instructions.

Tapcon® is a registered trademark of ITW Buildex (http://www.itwbuildex.com)